Socialization Redux :: Functionality is Greater than Sociability

We are kicking off our blog in 2019 revisiting a popular topic; puppy socialization.

Most owners understand that socialization typically refers to exposing our puppy to new experiences. However, most owners also very much focus that process mainly on meeting and interacting with other dogs.

We, the owners and trainers of a thriving dog daycare, are here to tell you otherwise.

That probably sounds like crazy talk, but here’s the deal. It is absolutely great to have a dog that WANTS to socialize with other dogs, and that can do so in a safe manner. That said, is socializing with a group of strange dogs at a dog park, or in a daycare (preferably a well run operation like Dogs Abound) something that is critical to your dog’s happiness and well-being?

Nope. It’s not.

What is critical, is that your dog can FUNCTION in the presence of other dogs. That he/she can be around other dogs, and either interact calmly, or just ignore the other dogs all together. That is healthy, normal dog behavior, and its what will ultimately allow your dog a more anxiety-free existence. A dog that can calmly wait at the vets office, or lay on a mat while you have lunch with friends is what we all want. A dog that wants to frenetically meet every animal that walks by, or conversely, bark and lunge at them really isn’t fun to handle. Calmness is the goal.

Beatrix takes it all in stride. Waiting to get into her crate and head off to the plane at Dallas Love airport.

Beatrix takes it all in stride. Waiting to get into her crate and head off to the plane at Dallas Love airport.

Many dogs who are “well socialized” as puppies, and get a good amount of consistent dog interactions, STILL eventually “age out” of daycare. There is absolutely nothing wrong with those dogs. Just as many humans (most humans, frankly) are not hyper-social, many dogs are not either. Going to parties and staying out late is fun in your teens and early twenties, but most people grow out of it. Dogs do too. Now, as an adult should you still be able to go to a family function, or meet a friend out at a restaurant for dinner? Yes, that is healthy social human behavior. Dogs should likewise be able to take a walk, go on a routine outing, and casually cross paths with other dogs without having a meltdown. But they should NOT be expected to appreciate or enjoy the advances of any rude dog that flings himself their way. Or be expected as a grown adult to enjoy roughhousing with rude adolescents at the dog park. Most people wouldn’t appreciate a complete stranger grabbing their hand and dragging you on a dance floor without getting to know them and asking permission first, right? Then why would we expect our dogs to be so much more tolerant than we are?

So, back to what TO do when socializing young dogs;

  • The most important factor is consistency. One or two play dates before the puppy is 16 weeks old are NOT enough. They must get REGULAR exposure to other dogs, people, and experiences on a REGULAR basis. As in multiple times a week.

  • When the puppy ages past that “critical window” (roughly the four month mark), your work is still not done. You hopefully have already done much of the “heavy lifting”, BUT throughout that first year, your puppy still needs continued exposure and new experiences. You can let off the gas slightly, but you still need to be moving that needle.

  • Do not push the puppy past their comfort zone. If the puppy appears uncomfortable or fearful of what is happening, back off, pack it up, and try it again another day. Do not force him to just “work through it.” Evaluate what may have been the issue, and break it down into small micro-steps to ensure success.

  • Easy, short excursions and experiences are best. Twenty minutes in a cart driving around Home Depot, or a half an hour at a friends house with another bombproof, dog savvy dog is enough. Again, CONSISTENCY of exposure is MORE important than duration.

  • If you ever feel icky about what is happening with your puppy and another dog, or even you puppy and a human do not be afraid to advocate for your dog. A polite “okay, play time is over, we gotta go! Thanks!” is more than enough. If you are unsure about interactions, you are probably right. Listen to your gut.

  • get professional help. Really. Hiring a professional trainer to coach you through the puppy process may seem like a big investment at the time, but it will pay off many times over in the long run. Having a dog that has a well-planned out first year of life that includes positive training and experiences will produce a well-balanced, well-mannered dog for life.

If you have any questions about puppy socialization, please contact us! We are here to help. And as always feel free to ask questions here or on our social media platforms.

Loose Leash What? Are 20 Minute Neighborhood Walks Really Good for Your Dog?

               Taking your dog for a walk can be a really relaxing experience for both yourself and your pup. Who doesn’t like to stop and smell the roses from time to time? While walks are great for physical health, it’s important that they’re also benefiting everyone’s mental health as well. If a typical walk consists of constant arm pulling, barking at dogs/people, constantly giving your dog commands, then maybe there’s a better way to spend time together.


               Dogs repeat behavior that gets reinforced. If pulling on a leash results in movement forward, that sends the message that he should pull when he wants to go forward. Additionally, if he has been practicing pulling forward many times on the same route, he’s had the opportunity to study and hone his talent of pulling on this path. Instead of trying to “fix” this behavior while he’s pulling on your walk, use this time instead to start practicing some loose leash walking foundations at home where he’s comfortable and the environment is predictable.

               Imagine while taking a casual stroll, your neighbors run down their driveway and start yelling at you. It wouldn’t take too many repetitions of this scenario for you to start anticipating getting bombarded at those houses. If your dog’s daily walks include scenarios where he/she repeatedly gets “yelled at” by other dogs, these walks could actually be having the opposite of the desired effect! Even though getting to the “path less traveled” may take longer, and result in less walks a week, the outcome may actually make it easier for your dog to relax when you get home.

               How often does your dog get a chance to be a dog and use her nose to freely follow smells or look where she wants, instead of “watch me”? A walk should include time to allow your dog to sniff where she wants to sniff and look where she wants to look. Having to constantly say “leave it” or “let’s go” can wear on one’s patience really quickly. Try to separate the times you are training your dog (to leave things on the ground or only pay attention to you) from the times when you are telling her that it’s ok to just go do what meets her canine needs.

               There are a lot of other options for activities than the daily, obligatory walk, that are also potentially less time-consuming, and, more fun. Hide-and-go-seek is a fun activity that can take as few as 15 minutes to mentally and physically tire out your pup, and you don’t even need to leave the house! Does your dog like to dig? Give her a kiddie pool filled with sand and let her do her thing in an appropriate area. Retailers sell a plethora of brain games for dogs, but you can create DIY toys out of empty soda bottles, boxes, or even muffin tins.

               Dogs need mental stimulation in the same way they need exercise. A brain game a day with some training sessions sprinkled in and an occasional day off is a pretty reliable recipe to a healthy pup.

If you have questions about any of the information above or need assistance with your loose leash walking training, please contact us at


Needs of the Common Dog; Are You Meeting Them?

Question; what does your dog do all day? Really? Are you gone, like most people are, for 8 hours of the day with a dog at home alone? Or maybe your household has people at home much of the day, and yet, what is your dog actually doing with the bulk of his/her time?

Most dogs spend their time at home, often alone, or even if someone *is* home, the dog is expected to be quiet and calm, aka "well behaved". Yet little to no enrichment or entertainment is provided for the dog, they are left to their own devices. Some dogs can manage to stay out of trouble despite a "minimal" environment, but, just as many, if not most, cannot.


Most breeds of dogs commonly found in American households, were bred for a purpose, other than sitting on laps or snoozing at their humans' feet. Terriers were bred to hunt and unearth critters, sporting dogs were bred to run huge swaths of land, swim, and retrieve, while herding dogs and working dogs, well, that's pretty self-explanatory.

So why are we surprised when we find that our terriers have dug up the back yard, the Visla has run a track around the backyard chasing butterflies, the Lab has chewed off all the sprinkler heads, and the Corgi has taken to nipping the kids as they run around the yard? All these "problem behaviors" are really just symptoms of the dogs' needs not being met.

Since we have taken these purpose-bred dogs out of their "genetic" environments and typically cannot provide them with the proper outlets to do what they were bred to do, what is the solution? Well aside from signing up for hunting or herding lessons, there *are* things we can do to help our dogs fulfill their natural needs. 

Dogs need both mental and physical exercise, on a daily basis. And yet, you may be surprised, it does not need to be for hours on end. Basic enrichment activities can not just help your dog be more content, but also can accomodate for most people’s busy schedules. Most enrichment games and activities can take 30 minutes or less, yet will have a lasting impact on your dog's well-being.

Some ideas for mental exercise are;

- food puzzles/toys - dogs should NOT be eating the majority of their meals out of a bowl! Food toys and puzzles are ideal, but other options are scattering food in the backyard or even in a clean hard floored area for your dog to forage, or even feeding your dog his/her meal via a training session. No cost food puzzles can be made from household items such as paper towel rolls, rolled up towels, empty water bottles, etc. Foraging for food consumes both mental and physical energy, as well as frees up time for the human half. Frozen food meals or treats in feeder toys can be made ahead of time, then delivered when needed.

- hard chews - dogs who have good health/teeth should be allowed to chew on a regular basis. Hard chewing is both a physically exerting AND mentally soothing activity for most dogs. Chews can be consumable, such as raw marrow or knuckle bones, or hard edible chews available on the market (bully sticks, Himalayan chews, beef trachea, etc), or, they can be "non-edible" such as Nylabones. Either way, giving you dog a variety of chewing options will not just save your family’s shoes and baseboards, but your sanity too.

- sniffing! Yes, we said it. Sniffing, while on walks, is a GOOD thing. Dogs have "300 million olfactory receptors in their noses, compared to about six million in us. And the part of a dog's brain that is devoted to analyzing smells is, proportionally speaking, 40 times greater than ours!"* Which means, they WANT to explore the world through their noses! Getting your dog out on a more natural terrain such as a park, or even better, a nature trail, on a longer lead, and letting them explore the environment through their nose is a FAR better means of wearing them out than a comparable walk around the neighborhood sidewalk. Try it out, you may be surprised!

- training - using positive reinforcement-based training to teach your dog new skills, or even just fun tricks, is a great way to wear out their mind. What you train isn't so important as the "game" of training itself. Dogs that learn that problem solving can have rewarding outcomes will be the most eager and dedicated learners, as well as easier to communicate with!

We do many of these enrichment activities with our training and Montessori program dogs here at Dogs Abound. Feel free to contact us with questions, or for more information.

* reference;

Social Animals; Bars, Dog Parks and the Correllations Between

The late night bar scene is not for everyone. It can be visually and audibly overstimulating when things are really going full swing.  It can also be overwhelming to be polite to people who can’t take a hint. Sometimes the bouncers are too busy talking to regulars to prevent drunken squabbles from turning into fights. These social pressures that many people find uncomfortable are very similar to social pressures placed on dogs at dog parks.

    Even just entering the dog park can be difficult, thanks to dogs guarding the entrance. Your dog gets through the gate, and before he can even stop to smell the grass, there is a nose up his butt and another dog jumping on his head trying to play. How overwhelmed would you feel walking into a bar to have half the patrons rapidly approach you, one clasping your shoulder, and just inches from your face, ask you what you want to eat and drink, all before you’ve even had a chance to orient yourself?

    After surviving the introductions, now your dog has found a friend to play and run with.  All the fun they are having has gotten attention from other dogs that are now jumping in to join in the fun.  Now we have a group of multiple dogs, whom are unfamiliar with each other’s play preferences, trying to interact as one large group. Two of the dogs figured out they like to play jump, others know they like to herd, and then there’s always the one who thinks all the other dogs are solely there so he can hump them. A squabble among two of the dogs in the group breaks out, but nobody comes running to claim their dogs. It escalates, because one of the dogs likes to referee the others, trying to calm the situation – where are these dogs’ parents?!

Have you ever had a conversation in a really large, excited group of people? The subject changes five times per minute, there are other opinions that you really don’t care about flying your way, and you end up fighting just to get your two cents heard. Plus, so many diverging opinions can steer things the wrong way, fast. It’s often frustrating and emotionally draining trying to participate in such a large group.

Now let’s consider another component – age. I was much more willing to go out partying all night with friends at 21 than I am now. Dogs do “age out” of daycare regularly. They get to an age where there is just no more patience for that young buck who just wants to run around playing and tugging all day – and that’s completely fine! Dog parks prevent the older crowd from being able to separate themselves from the younger, more adventurous players. Even after politely expressing disinterest, there is no guarantee the other dog will understand the communication and actually back off. It doesn’t take many of these interactions before your dog is labeled the aggressor after appropriately asking the other dogs for a break.

Socialization is very important in a dog’s life, especially at certain ages, but caution should be taken before using the dog park. Does your dog actually want to play with other dogs, or do they just meander by themselves keeping distance? What play is your dog’s preferred style? Would he/she enjoy being run at by an unlimited number of dogs? What personalities are currently in the park now? There are many options other than the dog park for tiring out your pup both mentally and physically. If you’re running out of ideas or just don’t know what to do with your dog if you aren’t going to the park, please contact us for ideas. We are happy to help you come up with solutions that fit your and your dog’s lifestyle.

Know Better, Do Better

I was recently listening to a podcast and was reminded of this lovely quote by Maya Angelou;

"Do the best you can until you know better. Then when you know better, do better."

As do most things in my brain, I jumped to dog training when I was turning this over in my head.


I spend most of my time with "positive reinforcement-based" or "clicker trainer" trainers, both in person and when learning from others online. The vast majority of people I have the fortune to spend my time with are dedicated learners. They always want to know, and be able to apply, more, better.

The irony however, is that regardless of what "camp" we live in, "positive-based" especially, is that sometimes it can be challenging to converse with someone--whether that person is another trainer, or a client, or someone on Facebook--whose ethics seem so drastically different (or sometimes even just slightly different!) from our own. It can be tempting to "preach" at someone, or scold someone who is using what could be labeled as "harsh". It's human nature to divide others into groups--"you fit in that box, I fit in that box," "my box is RIGHT, yours is wrong...," etc., etc. 

I think its critical, especially for dog trainers to remember, that if we want to help clients, and even better, change their behavior to apply methods that will be easier and yet still effective on the dog, that we need to be kind. And open, and less judgemental.

There is always a reason why a client may walk into a lesson with a dog on a prong collar. A friend or neighbor may have recommended it, or maybe even another trainer whom they paid for their expertise. Maybe they have used that tool in the past, and it worked. People are always just seeking a solution, using the knowledge they have.

Nothing feels worse than being shamed for a "wrong" you didn't know was wrong. So, dog trainers, take a deep breath, and ask the client the question; "how is this tool working for you?" And then LISTEN. Which is easier said than done.

It is our job, as professionals who people are hiring for our advice and our knowledge, to freely and kindly share that knowledge. Leave the blame and judgement at the door, and teach our clients WELL, so we can ALL be better.


The "Perfect" Puppy -- Foundations for Life

'Tis "puppy season"! This time of year into early Spring is when we get inundated with new puppies. Owners who know the importance of training and socialization get their puppies out and about from the start, which is fantastic. They are asking about training classes and also, what they should be teaching their puppies at home.

Now, this is where we may diverge a bit from what the "traditional" thoughts on "puppy training" might be. "Skills"--such as sit, down, stay, walking on leash, et cetera, are of course ALL very important skills for your dog to learn. However, those are just that; "skills". They can be easily, and very quickly, taught to dogs who have existing foundation behaviors. As in, we must have an understanding of how water, soil and seeds work together, and how to treat all of these elements, before we can grow a productive garden. And like in a garden, we don't just "grow it" once, and then walk away. It is an ongoing process, that needs to be continually nurtured and balanced in order to produce results again and again.

So, what are the most important elements to consider when initially training your new puppy? Here are the five behaviors we tend to focus on with our very young dogs that will lead to better skills learning and more stable dogs down the road!

1. Learning to eat

Yes, I said it! Learning to eat, when presented with food, as silly as it sounds, is something that frequently gets muddied up early on for many dogs and owners. Puppies should ideally be fed at least half of their meals from you, via training sessions or other enrichment games. When they do need to be fed out of a bowl, it should be a pre-determined amount, on a general schedule (as opposed to free feeding on the dog's timeline). Building the puppy's propensity to look to YOU for reinforcement, as opposed to just having food available whenever, with no connection to you, will devalue food in general for many dogs. With just a little bit of effort on your part form early on, your puppy will learn that you + food = great stuff happens!

2. Play! Play and more play!

Many people play with their puppy initially when the puppy is very young, but then leave the dog to its own devices. One on one play with your puppy is one of the BEST ways to build relationship and engagement with your dog. If again, just like with food, your puppy learns that engaging in appropriate toy-based and physical play with you is enjoyable, it simply gives you that many more "tools" in your reinforcement toolbox for down the road. Play fun games of fetch and tug with your puppy. *If* your puppy can enjoy gentle wrestling games without going into hyper-bitey-overdrive mode, play that way. Some puppies like to chase or be chased. Experiment and find out what your puppy likes. Having interactive play games is also a great way to burn off energy, while simultaneously reinforcing the fact that YOU are the best of all the options.

3. Containment and confinement.

Most people do use crates early on in their puppy's potty training, as they should! But unfortunately, once the puppy is mostly housebroken, the crate gets relegated to the garage where it gathers dust until the next neighborhood yard sale. I say, use that crate! Now, I do not advocate leaving a dog in a crate all day, by any means. BUT, a dog that can relax happily in a crate for a few hours at a stretch is a dog that will; board comfortably, be able to settle a bit better at the vet or the groomer, travel in confinement, and/or be a good house guest in others homes. Dogs that can handle confinement with aplomb are those dogs that can literally travel through life with a lot more ease. Make the crate a GOOD place for your dog!

4. Name and foundations for recall.

If I could choose one and only one behavior for every dog on earth to have 100% reliable, it would be a "recall" or a "come when called". A recall isn't just useful, but a rock solid recall can even save your dog's life. Building value for your puppy responding to it's name from the early stages, and generously and diligently reinforcing their response, is a great way to build your dog's propensity to respond to your call. For every time you say "Max!" in a burst of annoyance, there should be five more "Max!"s, that are reinforced by a cookie, a ball throw, or something the dog *really* wants. Be VERY aware of how and when you use your puppy's name. Calling them to you, then putting them in the bath tub, or clipping on the leash and then leaving the park, degrades their response to their name. So, be hyper aware of this VERY critical "bank account," and deposit LOTS and LOTS of "cookie money" to ensure the pay out will be there when you most need it.

5. Handling and husbandry behaviors. 

I'll be 110% honest with you all (if you're still with me!). Husbandry and handling is one of my "weaker" spots. I am a "doer" in life, and my dogs and I like to go, go, GO! BUT, solid husbandry behaviors--such as holding still for examinations at the vet's, the groomer, etc., take time and patience! And they are SO important. Gentle handling with tons and tons of reinforcement for cooperation *should* be a critical component of every puppy's early upbringing. Here's a video of us working with a client puppy on accepting ear cleaning and teeth brushing. Having a dog that is comfortable with these routine procedures, and who can actually *relax* at the groomer's or the vet is a dog that makes everyone who comes in contact with him/her happy and so very grateful that you took the time to do that extra bit of training.

So, that may seem like a lot, BUT, guess what, you have time! Take the time to carve out just five minutes a day to spend on one or two of these items, and you will be handsomely rewarded down the line. Plus, if you do, you will get the amazing BONUS side effect; an engaged dog! Puppies whose parents spend the time teaching them critical life skills mature into happy, eager learners who are a joy to live with. Don't be intimidated, just get out there for a few minutes a day and do it! You, and your puppy, will be glad you did.

Happy training!



Reinforcement Rules

Most people who will bother to read this already know about the "magic" of reinforcement in dog training. It's a big deal, a hot topic, a buzzword. For good reason, it should be.

I try to instill in my clients, whether they are visiting me for basic manners, behavioral challenges, or sport work, that nothing trumps high value, well-timed reinforcement. Nothing.

Pretty sure he finds that Chuckit ball rewarding...

Pretty sure he finds that Chuckit ball rewarding...

But, of course, there are rules. Many, honestly, but here are some of the more imperative rules that will immediately impact your training.

  • behavior that is being repeated is being reinforced. Either you or the environment are rewarding the dog for the behavior, or on occasion, the behavior itself can be self-reinforcing
  • you should reward your dog MORE OFTEN. Period. More frequently, more times per correct behavior. People are always amazed how quickly I can get a dog to engage with me, or do X behavior. I am not sure I am all that "talented" frankly, its more that I know how to be generous at the right time.
  • that said, reinforcement is NOT just throwing food mindlessly, or offering treats incessantly, or letting the dog grab the toy and take off while you chase them around the yard. All of that DEVALUES the reinforcement process. I have met many a R+ trainer who is madly clicking and throwing food, to a completely unengaged, uninterested dog. When asked what they just clicked and rewarded, usually the answer is not concise, and the dog's behavior is evidence of that. Know exactly WHAT you are marking and rewarding and focus on a SPECIFIC behavior, or set of behaviors. Make the rewards retain their value by making it clear to the dog what the Cue-Behavior-Reward sequence is.
  • the dog defines what is reinforcing. Not you. I see this ALL the time, in both pet AND sport teams. Dog doesn't want to tug with you or chase a ball? Stop beating your (and their) head against the wall and get out the cookies. Dog not performing enthusiastically for those Zukes or Dry Crunchy Things(TM) you bought at Petco? For the love, stop being stingy and get out some freaking hotdogs or chicken. Figure out what your dog REALLY wants. Really, its worth it.
  • you need to build up reward SYSTEMS. For most pet owners, just teaching the dog that "mark/click-cookie is coming" is good. For those that want to train more advanced concepts like tricks or sport work, there need to be a LOT more tools in your reward tool box than "food always comes from the hand or out of a bowl". Building up those reward systems in the dog's foundation will go a LONG way in speeding along actual skills-learning down the road. The more methods you have in "treating" your dog--food, toys, personal play, other--the more motivated and willing a work partner you will have, and you will be able to train a VAST variety of behaviors. One dimensional reward systems are limiting to what teams can learn.
  • reward in position! WHERE you deliver the food makes all the difference in the world. When training stays, we should get the food quickly into the dogs mouth or between their front paws so they do not have any reason to move. Conversely, use your food to get the dog up and released! Hannah Brannigan talks about "behavior loops," and those "release cookies" are just as important to get right as the "in position" cookies as a means of resetting the dog and getting them to start the loop again on their own. Its a fascinating concept, I encourage you to check out her podcast if you want to geek out further about any of these ideas.  

Dogs that receive generous amounts of concise reinforcement are eager and willing learners, and build great relationships with their people. By bucking the notion that "he's only doing it because I have food" and learning how reinforcement actually WORKS, you can create amazing behavior change, and teach complex skills, QUICKLY. It's so freaking cool!

Happy to answer any questions or discuss anything on this front you might have.


Starting Over, a Re-introduction

Here we are, three-and-a-half years into the "project" known as Dogs Abound. I have had some stops and starts with blogging along the way, but honestly I've been horrible about committing to it. I *should* be blogging, for a variety of reasons, increased web traffic and all that jazz, building our brand, etc., etc,. And also because my web guru Reg says so (are you reading this Reg???).

I figured it was time to hold myself accountable, and put down the constantly swirling dust devils of ideas I have about training dogs down on the 'ol interwebs for posterity. Now that I have been doing this "dog thing" for a while, and am often teaching others, there is a lot I do know. And a lot more I still don't know, or at least am constantly turning over and over in my mind about what is "best" or "right," or at least, what is the most fair and effective way to get from point A to point B.

So, the re-intro.


My name is Elizabeth Randall, or Liz. I have been professionally training dogs for seven years as of this writing. I focus on positive-reinforcement-based training solutions, though I shy away from labels such as "clicker trainer" (though I love clickers and markers and use them daily), or "force free" (that's a whole 'nother can of worms that maybe I'll get into further down the line), or any of the other terms that people tend to use to compartmentalize what others do. I personally am obsessed with observing what smart reinforcement systems can do with dogs. The results are frankly astonishing once these methods are applied in a consistent and adept manner.

I teach pet dog skills, work with owners on behavioral solutions, and teach agility. Anyone who knows me knows agility is my life and my love, and its influence is seen frequently in my pet dog training. In order to competently "play" in the sport of agility, one's understanding of how to create, manipulate, motivate and maintain behavior has to be quite vast. So many moving parts all corresponding at high speeds...!!! Its a science and an art that one will never quite master, no matter how long we play at it. Which to me, is part of the allure. I'm a little masochistic that way apparently.

Currently I have three dogs. Forest, a 10 year old(??) Italian Greyhound - Miniature Pinscher mix (and the reason for all this training insanity!), Phineas, a seven year old pittie mix, and Beatrix, a three year old Border Collie. All three have competed and titled in a variety of dog things, but Forest is basically retired. The other two are currently actively competing in agility at the highest levels, and, Phin also has recently embarked on a competitive career in Nose Work. I am VERY excited where we will go together down that avenue as well. These three dogs have brought so much to my life, I am so very fortunate for each of them. They constantly push me to be a better trainer and a better person, and I am so lucky to have them here navigating through daily life with me.

I will be *trying* to keep up with this blog, ideally on a weekly basis, to discuss different training topics--sometimes it may be agility-related, often it will be generally just training-related, and I am sure some daily life and business stuff will just creep in, but the goal is to help people look at training from a new perspective, and to hopefully help people tackle and work through challenges they are facing with their own dogs.

Here's to getting a jump on the new year.